The Salve Bus System

So buses, buses in ES are really really interesting so I thought I would dedicate a whole post to this. The bus system in ES is comprised of all buses that are privately owned BUT they are supposedly regulated by the government. I never thought this really true until I was in San Sal the other day. One of my buses was pulled over by the police and the bus driver was pulled off with his ID. Since gas prices have gone down, the government is mandating re-dropping the prices on buses. (They were raised after the oil prices shot up.) After the driver was off, the policeman came in and asked us what he charged. We said $.20 which is what the new fare is (the old fare was $.25 or in Salve speak una cora.) Eventually the driver came back and we went on our way but it was interesting to see.

In the city, you pay when you get on but outside of the capital or major cities like San Miguel, you pay later when the cobrador, which is the man who like helps the driver say that the bus is leaving, where its going, and collects the money. He's like a loud speaker and a treasurer. ha. Yeah, so he comes by every so often after a new pick up and collects the money owed. What is remarkeable is A. how he remembers who hasn't or has paid and B. that no one tries to cheat him or argue that they haven't paid. NEVER. Even more remarkeable is that buses in ES don't have a capacity. Funnier still is when a bus is formally from Vermost School District and states the capacity limit and the bus rules...NONE of which are being followed. Buses NEVER can be too full. You stand on top of each other in the aisles, on the seats, in the door (not kidding). And then you take really sharp turns and feel like you are going to tip over...I am ALMOST used to this. Then, at every major stop if you are in the city or leaving the city, there are dozens of vendors that come through selling their goods in the aisles. These can be fruits, vegetables, pupusas, drinks, newspapers, etc. This is good really for when you are in a hurry and brave enough to eat food of an unknown origin. I have so far discovered that I have a pretty hearty stomach so I have indulged in bus food various times. There are also times when a preaching evangelical will get on the bus for 15 minute ride or some guy will get up and talk to us about some product that will cure the worms in our stomachs. The best though are the salesman who give their bus pitches. These can be toothbrushes, books for children, crayons, etc. I have actually bought some travel toothbrushes for the bargain price of 3 for $1!! Yes, on a bus. I soaked them in bleach for good luck. The last interesting thing is how you get a bus. Formal stops do exist in the cities. But, when I say formal I mean like the whole city knows its there. There is no sign. Even things they call “bus terminals” sometimes aren't really that at all. There are just established places that 5 buses are always at. Most times as long as you stand somewhere on the route and act like you are in NYC hailing a cab, the bus will pull over, look like its about to tip over or run you over, and you can get on with the other thousand people going the same direction you are.

And that is the exciting bus system. It is really weird how its now normal to me but as I am writing it I am remembering just how bizarre it really is. Bizarre but totally functional. I don't miss having a car one bit only because I can catch a random bus on the side of the road ALL THE TIME...well, that's also bc I live in a town which most PCVs don't but anyways. They just have to walk an hour to a bus route.